Friendly Feathers

This feather trend, love it or hate it, will probably be around for awhile.  Sadly, I learned recently that there is not a humane way of harvesting the feathers that are commonly sold as extensions.  With this in mind, and as a hairstylist that does not offer extensions anyway, I decided to reinterpret the trend.  I set out to create a similar look by pre-lightening a small section of hair, then I painted on a freehand feather pattern.  I did this on my friend, who has hair past her shoulders.  I took a section just above and behind her ear, about a two inch by two inch square.  The "feather" looks great against the balayage highlights in her ends.    This is a creative technique, so be prepared for the cost and time of the service to reflect that.

NEW PHOTOS!

This is another happy friendly feather recipient!  We color melted the tips with an intense copper a few months ago.  We both still loved the color on the ends but wanted to add something new.  When Leia came in, she was wearing some feather earrings.  I brought up the feather trend and offered to paint a feather pattern in a section of her hair.  She currently has great layers that Master Stylist Peter Corvington cut for her.  I chose to take a section just in front and above the ear, but behind the front hairline slightly.  I lightened the section, then toned the background to a rich golden blonde.  I used the tip of my tint brush to paint, or press, horizontal lines into the hair.  I love the way it turned out!

photos via http://girlgenius.tumblr.com/post/8350780875

Spring Has Sprung, and So Have Your Curls

We are now heading toward the time of year with sunny days, and beachy waves.  The humidity is building up and this leaves many curly and wavy texture clients submitting to their natural texture.  This can be painful for some, the straightening iron addicts, particularly.  It can lead to a vicious cycle of re-ironing the same sections that keep kinking up.  This can also lead to damage from excess heat.  So what is a girl to do?

Well, if you must keep up the fight, arm yourself with the right tools.  Aveda Smooth Infusion line is designed to protect the hair against humidity and can also add a barrier from the heat of styling tools.  Start your routine with Smooth Infusion Shampoo and Conditioner.  Depending on your hair texture, you can follow up with one or a combo of styling products.

For fine to medium texture, just a pump or two of Style-Prep Smoother applied to towel-dried hair can be combed in and then style as usual.  If you let your hair air dry, consider the Light Elements Smoothing Fluid instead because the Style-Prep can dry a little stiff if not brushed.

If the hair needs more help, and can handle something a little more heavy, layer on a small amount of Glossing Straightener on top of the Style-Prep and then use a brush with tension to dry the hair smooth.  Be sure to direct the airflow of the drier down the hair shaft to help smooth down the cuticle. Then use the iron to polish off ends.  Finish the hair with either Air Control Hair Spray for flexible hold on those fly away hairs.  If you are not a fan of spray, you can smooth down the hairs with a dab of Light Elements Smoothing Fluid, just keep it off the scalp or you will look a little oily.

New York Fashion Week

I had the opportunity to help on the Aveda hair team for two shows on Sunday at the Helen Mills Event Center.  The first show (with a 6 am call time) was a showcase featuring 7 emerging designers.  It was great to see the variety.  With such a large number of designers, there were an insane amount of models to prepare.  80, actually.  We divided the 40 stylists into teams, and we were each assigned to one designer for the morning.  I worked on the Natarsha Shearin team, and the look was the classic "Gibson Girl" loose bun.   We used control force and 1 1/2 inch irons to set the hair first, then we backcombed the hair except the hairline.  The hair was then gathered to the crown, leaving it loose and billowy on the hairline still.  The hair at the crown was secured into a small bun. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a good shot of the finished look, but I will post one later if I get one from someone else.

The master at work.  Jon Reyman was the lead stylist for both shows.

After we finished prepping the first show, we had enough time to recharge and refuel for an hour.  The next show, also at the Helen Mills Event Center, was Leeanne Marshall.  I was excited to be on this team, because I was a fan of Leeanne ever since she was on (and won) Project Runway a couple years ago.  We only had 10 models, so we all teamed up to execute the look quickly.  The hair had an extreme side part, and a slick low ponytail.  My model had short hair, so we adapted the look with the side part, and then used glossing straightener to slick the hair to the side and back.  After prep, we were lucky enough to actually get seats for the show!  I love NYFW!

Going Gray in a Gorgeous Way

I have spent a very long time thinking about gray hair.  As a colorist, usually I am thinking about how to cover it up.   Recently, I am realizing there are many options for enhancing gray.  More and more women are asking for help during the transition from the base colors they thought they were bound to and the soft silver hues they were hiding for years.

For some, this transition is easier than for others.  It all depends on how much gray you have, how it is distributed (big patches or sprinkled throughout), how dark is your natural color (if you still have any), and how much coverage you have right now.  Additionally, we need to take skin tone into consideration.

I am going to explain the process I went through with a couple of clients to help them go gray.  I wish I had before and after photos for all of them.

Client 1: Margery was almost 100% gray, but was coloring her hair copper red for many years.  She was naturally a redhead, but there was no evidence remaining, except her skin tone.  The fact that she was used to seeing so much warmth against her skin, along with the fact that red is a tricky tone to get rid of, we were up for a challenge.  After looking through pictures, we decided that the first step would be to make her a very light golden blonde.  This way she still had warmth next to her face while she got used to seeing a lighter shade.  We had to do a lightener service to remove all the red from her hair, and we brought it up to a pale yellow.  Then we toned the hair to the golden shade we agreed on ahead of time.

It was still a shock, but Margery felt like herself.  She was thrilled that her new growth was a lot less obvious when it grew out.  She came in a couple more times, a couple months apart, and we toned her hair more neutral the first time, and then platinum.  You could barely tell as it grew out from there, and from then on she only came to the salon for haircuts.

Client 2: Denise had most of her gray at the front hairline, and on the top of her head.  She was naturally light brown, but we were coloring her hair red brown with copper highlights.  She still wanted to color her hair, but wanted something lower maintenance.  She had great skin that really worked with color, so we decided to go with a slightly richer version of her natural color, with really pale highlights where her gray was.  I did a lot of very fine foil highlights so they looked like they were growing out of the scalp, and I neutralized the old red to a soft golden brown between all the foils.  Then we toned the highlights to a nice neutral blonde that would not contrast too much when the gray grew out.  The result was beautiful!  I knew the red tone would show through in a few weeks, so Denise came in again in six weeks and we picked up the same highlight pieces and toned the hair between the foils again.  It was gorgeous again, and lasted much longer.  She could easily go three to four months between appointments if she wanted.

Client 3: Lisa had naturally dark brown hair, and enough gray that she was coming in every three weeks.  She was considering going gray, but wasn't sure she was ready.  We decided to have fun with it and created a couple ribbons of gray where she had big patches naturally.  Think Stacy London on What Not to Wear.  The effect was very striking, but we did still need to tone the pieces every time she came in for base color so they would look gray and not blonde.  Even though it didn't make her color lower maintenance, it allowed her to see herself with some gray, and it made people question whether she colored her hair or not.

I could go on and on with many different client scenarios, but I try keep my posts from going long.  If you want to transition away from your base color and are not sure what your options are, send me and email form this blog.  Or if you are in the New York City area, call Aveda to schedule a free color consultation with me at (212) 473- 0280.

The Trend for 2011: Fresh and New

The excitement and anticipation of the holidays has come and gone.  For many people, the first couple months of each new year are dull and dreary.  One great way to fight the down season is to get a fresh look with new hair and makeup.

I was studying the trend forecasts over the last couple days, and one thing that stood out was the change to brighter colors.  I was particularly drawn to photos of Claire Danes at the Emmy's.  In a sea of smokey eyes, she stands out with beautiful pinky shadow.  She is radiant!  I think this look will catch on by spring at the latest.

I think this change to bright eyes will pair well with lighter, brighter shades of hair.  I love the "bronde" look where it is a brown base with blonde highlights.  Jennifer Aniston has had this look forever, but now it is modernized with the "rooty" look so the it is predominately brown at the base, and mostly blonde at the ends.  I personally like this look to be a flowing transition from dark to light, on hair that is at least past the shoulders.  This way it looks intentional, rather than roots in need of touching up.

Another option for a brighter new year is red.  Whether you are changing from a blonde or brown, make it vibrant!  Red is tricky, so a great color consultation before the color service is essential.  The wrong shade of red against your skin tone and eye color will make you look like you are wearing a wig.  You want people to wonder if maybe you are a natural redhead, even if you are wearing a not-so-natural shade.

Here is to a bright future for us all!