What is new?

I am often asked by guests "what is new in hair right now?" I want to have a new answer every time.  The world of hair color, and the trends that support it, are always evolving.  Or revolving.  I like to think it is a combination of the two.  Old becomes new again, but improved, or refined.  

What is new?  Or should the question be what looks good in hair right now?  This, of course, is a matter of taste, lifestyle, region, etc.  

For 2012, I expect to see clients gravitating to either end of the drama spectrum.  After the ombre effect gets old, some women will opt for more refined foil highlights and subtle all over color, both custom designed to give the client a better-than-natural, believable color.  On the other end, some will make use of those pre-lightened ends and incorporate obviously unnatural shades like pastels and jewel tones.  The more bold colors are better suited in the ends, because for some the look may only be fun for few weeks or months, and they can just cut out the color and move on.

I couldn't help but put up a photo of my hair twin, Michelle Williams.  I think this will look great heading into spring, and could easily lighten up again for the summer months.  

Aveda color can create a full spectrum of shades to satisfy the desires of those seeking a bit more drama, or for those wanting to fool everyone into thinking they don't color their hair at all.  Best of all, Aveda colors are up to 99% naturally derived and leave the hair in exceptional condition.  

Going Gray in a Gorgeous Way

I have spent a very long time thinking about gray hair.  As a colorist, usually I am thinking about how to cover it up.   Recently, I am realizing there are many options for enhancing gray.  More and more women are asking for help during the transition from the base colors they thought they were bound to and the soft silver hues they were hiding for years.

For some, this transition is easier than for others.  It all depends on how much gray you have, how it is distributed (big patches or sprinkled throughout), how dark is your natural color (if you still have any), and how much coverage you have right now.  Additionally, we need to take skin tone into consideration.

I am going to explain the process I went through with a couple of clients to help them go gray.  I wish I had before and after photos for all of them.

Client 1: Margery was almost 100% gray, but was coloring her hair copper red for many years.  She was naturally a redhead, but there was no evidence remaining, except her skin tone.  The fact that she was used to seeing so much warmth against her skin, along with the fact that red is a tricky tone to get rid of, we were up for a challenge.  After looking through pictures, we decided that the first step would be to make her a very light golden blonde.  This way she still had warmth next to her face while she got used to seeing a lighter shade.  We had to do a lightener service to remove all the red from her hair, and we brought it up to a pale yellow.  Then we toned the hair to the golden shade we agreed on ahead of time.

It was still a shock, but Margery felt like herself.  She was thrilled that her new growth was a lot less obvious when it grew out.  She came in a couple more times, a couple months apart, and we toned her hair more neutral the first time, and then platinum.  You could barely tell as it grew out from there, and from then on she only came to the salon for haircuts.

Client 2: Denise had most of her gray at the front hairline, and on the top of her head.  She was naturally light brown, but we were coloring her hair red brown with copper highlights.  She still wanted to color her hair, but wanted something lower maintenance.  She had great skin that really worked with color, so we decided to go with a slightly richer version of her natural color, with really pale highlights where her gray was.  I did a lot of very fine foil highlights so they looked like they were growing out of the scalp, and I neutralized the old red to a soft golden brown between all the foils.  Then we toned the highlights to a nice neutral blonde that would not contrast too much when the gray grew out.  The result was beautiful!  I knew the red tone would show through in a few weeks, so Denise came in again in six weeks and we picked up the same highlight pieces and toned the hair between the foils again.  It was gorgeous again, and lasted much longer.  She could easily go three to four months between appointments if she wanted.

Client 3: Lisa had naturally dark brown hair, and enough gray that she was coming in every three weeks.  She was considering going gray, but wasn't sure she was ready.  We decided to have fun with it and created a couple ribbons of gray where she had big patches naturally.  Think Stacy London on What Not to Wear.  The effect was very striking, but we did still need to tone the pieces every time she came in for base color so they would look gray and not blonde.  Even though it didn't make her color lower maintenance, it allowed her to see herself with some gray, and it made people question whether she colored her hair or not.

I could go on and on with many different client scenarios, but I try keep my posts from going long.  If you want to transition away from your base color and are not sure what your options are, send me and email form this blog.  Or if you are in the New York City area, call Aveda to schedule a free color consultation with me at (212) 473- 0280.

Fading Fast? How To Make Your Hair Color Last

Most shades of color, even "permanent" formulas, fade over time.  Red shades fade fast, and blondes loose their luster.  Brunettes can get brassy.  So what can you do to reduce or delay the inevitable?  Here are a few tips.

1. Use a shampoo for color-treated hair, like Aveda Color Conserve.  The gentle formula cleans the hair without drying it out too much.  Avoid shampoos that are "volumizing" or "clarifying" because they will strip the color.
2. Don't skip the conditioner.  After shampoo, the cuticle of the hair can remain slightly raised, like an open door for color molecules to slip out.  The conditioner is designed to smooth down the cuticle, locking in the color, and leaving the hair more manageable and shiny.  Some fear conditioner because they used one that left their hair limp or greasy.  There are many great conditioners out there for all the different hair types, so talk to your stylist about which one is right for you.
3. Wash only as often as necessary.  Even with the right shampoo and conditioner, the color will fade a little bit with each shampoo, so the more time between shampoos, the longer the color will last.  The average woman should only need to wash every other day.  If you need to get your hair wet, just use a light conditioner and rinse thoroughly.
4. Protect your hair from the sun.  We all are used to the idea of sunscreen for our skin, so why not use sunscreen for our hair?  Aveda has a product that you can apply every day called Sun Care Protective Hair Veil.  You spray it on like a leave-in conditioner, and comb through for even distribution.  
5. Keep your hair healthy.  The healthier the hair, the better the color.  A good colorist will address any hair health issues and offer the appropriate conditioning treatments to get your hair back on track.  

Guide to a Great Color Consultation

Any client can have a satisfying color experience if they discuss certain details in their color consultation. Pictures are an essential part of the process. At the end of the consultation you and your colorist should have an agreement on the expected outcome and the cost of the service.

The best way to assure a great hair color is to have a great color consultation. At the beginning of every color service there should be a color consultation. Be ready to answer questions about your current hair color and how the look is working for you. Here are some examples:

Is your color …

· fading too light?

· looking dull?

· tone changing too much?

· dimension fading?

Are you …

· wearing bangs the same way?

· changing your haircut?

· happy with the amount of gray coverage?

I refer to my portfolio pictures to confirm the look. Some clients like to change their look, even slightly, at least once a year. My portfolio is always available with new ideas.

Pictures really are worth 1000 words, and more. My idea of “golden brown with natural blonde highlights” could be very different from what you imagine for yourself. A picture serves as a visual agreement of the expected outcome. Sometimes it takes more than one picture to show all that a colorist needs to know:

· amount of highlights

· level of contrast

· color of highlights

· color of base or lowlights

A great look is worth maintaining. The difference between your natural hair and your desired color determines how often you should return to the salon to maintain your look. Some services are recommended to touch-up every 4 weeks, some every 6-8 weeks, and some every 10-12 weeks. Also, you should receive recommendations for shampoo and conditioner that will keep your hair looking great as long as possible.

Dramatic changes may require more than one visit. If the look you want is not possible in one service, the colorist should find a picture you agree upon for the outcome of the first visit. In the event of corrective services, a waiver is filled out by the colorist and signed by you so you understand the cost of service, expected outcome, amount of visits required to fully achieve the look, and any possible risks of service.

At the end of a great color consultation, both you and colorist should be excited about the service. You are now free to enjoy the whole experience at the salon!