Color Clarity: Common Color Terms Decoded

I am going to start this post with a confession.  When I started cosmetology school, I did not know the difference between a highlight and a low light.  In fact, before I enrolled at 22 years old, I never had my hair colored.  I try to keep this in mind when communicating to clients about service options.

As a color specialist, I have a large vocabulary of terms in reference to technique.  The definitions of some of these words may be common knowledge, particularly to clients that already have their hair colored.  I am listing terms that I find myself explaining most frequently.  This is a long list, so I am going to add to this in later posts.

All over color:  One color formula applied to the entire head with either a bottle or bowl and brush.  Also called a single process color, because the final result is achieved in just one process.

Baliage or Baylayage: A highlighting and low lighting technique where fine sections of hair are painted freehand, without foils.

Color Cleanse: A service using a lightener and shampoo to remove color that is too dark or the wrong tone.

Deposit-Only Color: A category of hair color that can improve hair's condition and add depth, tone and shine.  The results fade over time, but can last up to 6 weeks.  The color can stain gray hair, but might not cover it completely.  It does not have the ability to make the hair lighter, only darker.

Foil Highlights: Hair is sectioned out and a piece of foil placed underneath.  Color or lightener is painted onto the hair, and then the foil is folded.  The technique allows the hairs that are being colored to be isolated from the rest.

Gloss: A color that is applied after lightening the hair to change tone and add shine.  Also called a toner.

Gray Blending: Color is applied with the intent that the gray is not covered completely, only stained, usually with a deposit-only color.  Ideal for clients that are not ready to maintain color on a monthly basis.

Highlights: Sections of hair are made lighter than the rest of the head, either with color or a lightener.

Low Lights: Sections of hair are made darker than the rest of the head with color, either permanent or deposit-only.

Lightener: A product that removes color from the hair.  Also called bleach.  Professional versions have conditioning agents that allow the hair to lighten while still keeping it healthy.  Lightener is a necessary tool to achieve pale blonde, and to lighten previously colored hair with predictable results.

Melting: A creative technique where in a section a darker color is applied at the roots then lighter in the middle and lightest color at the ends.

Color after Chemotherapy

As a color specialist, I have worked with several clients over the years that came to me after fighting cancer.  Once they have gone through all their chemotherapy, I am thrilled to see them in my chair, and even more excited about the opportunity to help them find their new look.  In some cases, the client wants to recapture the color they loved before chemo.  The first time after chemo, clients always have a lot of questions, and rightly so.

I am a color specialist, not an oncologist, so I always recommend that clients discuss their concerns with their doctors.  If they are finished with treatment however, and their hair is growing back at least a couple inches, it should be ready to color.  The hair texture after treatment is often different than it was before.  Many clients refer to their “chemo curls” affectionately. Others may just want to look like themselves again.  Although it is considered safe to color the hair at this time, there are a few things clients should be aware of before starting the coloring routine again. 

Hair immediately after chemotherapy is different than hair before, during, or years after.  The new hair is usually described as “fuzzy” and it seems fragile and thin.  This usually changes quickly, maybe a couple of months.  Human hair grows at an average rate of half an inch per month.  Hair also goes through three stages; a shedding phase, resting phase and growing phase.  Not every hair on the head is in the same part of the cycle at once, so when a head of hair is starting over after chemo, it could take six months to two years before all the hairs are growing again.  With that in mind, it could take a couple of years for someone’s hair to be the length and color they had before treatment. 

Some clients have more grey in their hair after chemo, and some have less.  The same goes with the darkness of their hair.  This may determine the options with hair color. Also, while the hair is less than three inches long, it will be hard to get a really thorough head of highlights so an all over base color may be the wiser choice.  If you do opt for highlights though, be sure that they are evenly distributed throughout the hair to keep from looking spotty.  This I find is more attractive on curly hair than it is on straight hair when it is short. 

If you opt for the all over base color, I would consider a gentle semi-permanent color first.  This not only is very healthy on the hair since it has no ammonia, but also gives you the freedom to try a different shade every couple months.  Semi-permanent colors fade off the hair usually in about six to eight weeks depending on how often you shampoo.  The limitations, however, are that semi-permanent color cannot make hair lighter than it is naturally (because there is no ammonia), and it does not always cover gray completely.  If covering gray and/or going lighter are priorities, then you will need permanent color. 

As always, I recommend you have a detailed consultation with your colorist before getting your hair colored. This is to assure that you are comfortable with the process and prepared for the results.  Finally, I am so proud of all the women I have known that have victoriously battled cancer.  You are beautiful inside and out.  I am just happy to help you look even more beautiful than you already are.

What is corrective color?

Part 1: What makes color “corrective color?”


On a regular basis, I receive a new client to the salon that is desperately in need of corrective color. The term “corrective” can be thrown around as a scare tactic in some salons. It is generally a serious matter, however. There is not a single definition of what constitutes a corrective service. If I had to sum it up most concisely, I would say any service that requires two or more steps and will leave the client with a noticeably different look. Sometimes, a corrective service needs to be done in steps, over a few appointments. This all depends on the individual situation.


Some corrective services are when clients have been getting their hair colored one way for a while and decide that they want it to be all over lighter, but without highlights. Or there are also clients that want their hair more than a couple shades darker. Here are the rules:


If you have all over base color on your hair, and you want it a lighter shade, but without highlights, you need a color cleanse to remove the old color and put on a new one. Artificial hair color cannot be removed without using some sort of color remover.


If you have lighter hair, either naturally or highlighted, and want to go significantly darker, you need you hair colored two times in a row on the same day so the color lasts. The first step will put warm tones in your hair and get it closer to the desired end result. The second step will balance or enhance those warm tones to the give a rich, even end result. If you have ever seen or heard of someone who colored their hair darker but it turned green, blotchy, or muddy, it is because they didn’t follow this rule.


Suppose you have very uneven tones and different levels of color throughout your hair. Maybe you did it yourself, or someone else without experience played on your hair. If you just want to look highlighted, then you may need a very thorough head of highlights and allover color between all those highlights. This can be a simple process for the colorist, or it could be very involved and time-consuming. It is up to the colorist if this qualifies as corrective color, and therefore should cost more than the usual highlights and base color service.

Guide to a Great Color Consultation

Any client can have a satisfying color experience if they discuss certain details in their color consultation. Pictures are an essential part of the process. At the end of the consultation you and your colorist should have an agreement on the expected outcome and the cost of the service.

The best way to assure a great hair color is to have a great color consultation. At the beginning of every color service there should be a color consultation. Be ready to answer questions about your current hair color and how the look is working for you. Here are some examples:

Is your color …

· fading too light?

· looking dull?

· tone changing too much?

· dimension fading?

Are you …

· wearing bangs the same way?

· changing your haircut?

· happy with the amount of gray coverage?

I refer to my portfolio pictures to confirm the look. Some clients like to change their look, even slightly, at least once a year. My portfolio is always available with new ideas.

Pictures really are worth 1000 words, and more. My idea of “golden brown with natural blonde highlights” could be very different from what you imagine for yourself. A picture serves as a visual agreement of the expected outcome. Sometimes it takes more than one picture to show all that a colorist needs to know:

· amount of highlights

· level of contrast

· color of highlights

· color of base or lowlights

A great look is worth maintaining. The difference between your natural hair and your desired color determines how often you should return to the salon to maintain your look. Some services are recommended to touch-up every 4 weeks, some every 6-8 weeks, and some every 10-12 weeks. Also, you should receive recommendations for shampoo and conditioner that will keep your hair looking great as long as possible.

Dramatic changes may require more than one visit. If the look you want is not possible in one service, the colorist should find a picture you agree upon for the outcome of the first visit. In the event of corrective services, a waiver is filled out by the colorist and signed by you so you understand the cost of service, expected outcome, amount of visits required to fully achieve the look, and any possible risks of service.

At the end of a great color consultation, both you and colorist should be excited about the service. You are now free to enjoy the whole experience at the salon!