Color after Chemotherapy

As a color specialist, I have worked with several clients over the years that came to me after fighting cancer.  Once they have gone through all their chemotherapy, I am thrilled to see them in my chair, and even more excited about the opportunity to help them find their new look.  In some cases, the client wants to recapture the color they loved before chemo.  The first time after chemo, clients always have a lot of questions, and rightly so.

I am a color specialist, not an oncologist, so I always recommend that clients discuss their concerns with their doctors.  If they are finished with treatment however, and their hair is growing back at least a couple inches, it should be ready to color.  The hair texture after treatment is often different than it was before.  Many clients refer to their “chemo curls” affectionately. Others may just want to look like themselves again.  Although it is considered safe to color the hair at this time, there are a few things clients should be aware of before starting the coloring routine again. 

Hair immediately after chemotherapy is different than hair before, during, or years after.  The new hair is usually described as “fuzzy” and it seems fragile and thin.  This usually changes quickly, maybe a couple of months.  Human hair grows at an average rate of half an inch per month.  Hair also goes through three stages; a shedding phase, resting phase and growing phase.  Not every hair on the head is in the same part of the cycle at once, so when a head of hair is starting over after chemo, it could take six months to two years before all the hairs are growing again.  With that in mind, it could take a couple of years for someone’s hair to be the length and color they had before treatment. 

Some clients have more grey in their hair after chemo, and some have less.  The same goes with the darkness of their hair.  This may determine the options with hair color. Also, while the hair is less than three inches long, it will be hard to get a really thorough head of highlights so an all over base color may be the wiser choice.  If you do opt for highlights though, be sure that they are evenly distributed throughout the hair to keep from looking spotty.  This I find is more attractive on curly hair than it is on straight hair when it is short. 

If you opt for the all over base color, I would consider a gentle semi-permanent color first.  This not only is very healthy on the hair since it has no ammonia, but also gives you the freedom to try a different shade every couple months.  Semi-permanent colors fade off the hair usually in about six to eight weeks depending on how often you shampoo.  The limitations, however, are that semi-permanent color cannot make hair lighter than it is naturally (because there is no ammonia), and it does not always cover gray completely.  If covering gray and/or going lighter are priorities, then you will need permanent color. 

As always, I recommend you have a detailed consultation with your colorist before getting your hair colored. This is to assure that you are comfortable with the process and prepared for the results.  Finally, I am so proud of all the women I have known that have victoriously battled cancer.  You are beautiful inside and out.  I am just happy to help you look even more beautiful than you already are.