Color Clarity: Common Color Terms Decoded

I am going to start this post with a confession.  When I started cosmetology school, I did not know the difference between a highlight and a low light.  In fact, before I enrolled at 22 years old, I never had my hair colored.  I try to keep this in mind when communicating to clients about service options.

As a color specialist, I have a large vocabulary of terms in reference to technique.  The definitions of some of these words may be common knowledge, particularly to clients that already have their hair colored.  I am listing terms that I find myself explaining most frequently.  This is a long list, so I am going to add to this in later posts.

All over color:  One color formula applied to the entire head with either a bottle or bowl and brush.  Also called a single process color, because the final result is achieved in just one process.

Baliage or Baylayage: A highlighting and low lighting technique where fine sections of hair are painted freehand, without foils.

Color Cleanse: A service using a lightener and shampoo to remove color that is too dark or the wrong tone.

Deposit-Only Color: A category of hair color that can improve hair's condition and add depth, tone and shine.  The results fade over time, but can last up to 6 weeks.  The color can stain gray hair, but might not cover it completely.  It does not have the ability to make the hair lighter, only darker.

Foil Highlights: Hair is sectioned out and a piece of foil placed underneath.  Color or lightener is painted onto the hair, and then the foil is folded.  The technique allows the hairs that are being colored to be isolated from the rest.

Gloss: A color that is applied after lightening the hair to change tone and add shine.  Also called a toner.

Gray Blending: Color is applied with the intent that the gray is not covered completely, only stained, usually with a deposit-only color.  Ideal for clients that are not ready to maintain color on a monthly basis.

Highlights: Sections of hair are made lighter than the rest of the head, either with color or a lightener.

Low Lights: Sections of hair are made darker than the rest of the head with color, either permanent or deposit-only.

Lightener: A product that removes color from the hair.  Also called bleach.  Professional versions have conditioning agents that allow the hair to lighten while still keeping it healthy.  Lightener is a necessary tool to achieve pale blonde, and to lighten previously colored hair with predictable results.

Melting: A creative technique where in a section a darker color is applied at the roots then lighter in the middle and lightest color at the ends.

Guide to a Great Color Consultation

Any client can have a satisfying color experience if they discuss certain details in their color consultation. Pictures are an essential part of the process. At the end of the consultation you and your colorist should have an agreement on the expected outcome and the cost of the service.

The best way to assure a great hair color is to have a great color consultation. At the beginning of every color service there should be a color consultation. Be ready to answer questions about your current hair color and how the look is working for you. Here are some examples:

Is your color …

· fading too light?

· looking dull?

· tone changing too much?

· dimension fading?

Are you …

· wearing bangs the same way?

· changing your haircut?

· happy with the amount of gray coverage?

I refer to my portfolio pictures to confirm the look. Some clients like to change their look, even slightly, at least once a year. My portfolio is always available with new ideas.

Pictures really are worth 1000 words, and more. My idea of “golden brown with natural blonde highlights” could be very different from what you imagine for yourself. A picture serves as a visual agreement of the expected outcome. Sometimes it takes more than one picture to show all that a colorist needs to know:

· amount of highlights

· level of contrast

· color of highlights

· color of base or lowlights

A great look is worth maintaining. The difference between your natural hair and your desired color determines how often you should return to the salon to maintain your look. Some services are recommended to touch-up every 4 weeks, some every 6-8 weeks, and some every 10-12 weeks. Also, you should receive recommendations for shampoo and conditioner that will keep your hair looking great as long as possible.

Dramatic changes may require more than one visit. If the look you want is not possible in one service, the colorist should find a picture you agree upon for the outcome of the first visit. In the event of corrective services, a waiver is filled out by the colorist and signed by you so you understand the cost of service, expected outcome, amount of visits required to fully achieve the look, and any possible risks of service.

At the end of a great color consultation, both you and colorist should be excited about the service. You are now free to enjoy the whole experience at the salon!